Every Day Life, Sights, and people in the kingdom 1971-1980 - Part 1

Enjoy a little music as you look back in time. Lovely Hula Girl – click to play

Saturday, November 1974 downtown Nuku’alofa.

Sunday morning, downtown Nuku’alofa. Circa 1975.

Another sleepy Sunday 1976. Perhaps I might be wrong, but I think the building on the left was a bakery where we would sometimes go to a side door to buy a loaf of bread on the QT in the wee hours of Sunday.

A “fale Tonga.” Circa 1974. Cooking area, bathing and bathroom area and living area. Many Tongan’s lived in this kind of dwelling while I was there.

The whole family at their fale Tonga home. The building to the right is the cooking area and to the left, home sweet home.

Walking home from the fale kaloa with a delicious looking loaf of bread and a beer bottle full of kerosene to fill up the kitchen’s kerosene stove just like the one I had. The bread, by the way, was and still is, always fresh and very tasty.

Just about as idyllic of a photo as one could want spelling out the South Pacific in all caps. I’m pretty sure Robinson Crusoe was out gathering coconuts when this photo was taken by Timosi Riddle in Niuatoputapu.

A relaxing, chat filled, song singing, kava evening…one of many, many evenings I remember being invited to be part of all those years ago. Circa 1976

A great view of Tafahi from a  beach on Niuatoputapu.

Heading out of town towards Tonga High School and the Royal tombs. Circa 1974.

Here is a great photograph (Circa 1968) showing the intersection of Queen Salote and Taufa’ahau Rd. Please note on the right, the old Burns Phillips general store and even a Shell Gas Station, just down the street.

I’m not sure what the occasion of this parade was for, but I thought I’d point out that there was a Burns Phil store on the corner of Taufa’ahau Road and Queen Salote Road, which was a vacant lot when I was there in 1974, and is now the New Zealand High Commission Office, so I’m going to guess this was probably during Queen Elizabeth’s visit in 1953. 

You’ll recognize this street corner building, but did you know it was built in the 1860’s by a Mr. Henry Percival. You can see Henry standing at the gate.

Tel’eieva movie house, showed mostly Kung Fu movies, although I did watch “Brother Sun, Sister Moon” (a movie about Saint Francis) one Friday afternoon.

My first hut (fale) in Mau’funga December 1974. That roof kept ALL rain out and ALL large insects and rats and other four legged beasts in. There was a parade of movement each night which took a little bit of getting used to. Only once did I get bit/stung on my butt by a ten inch centipede. I sat on him and he was not happy about it. It hurt like the Dicken’s, but it wasn’t lethal.

Saturday morning at the Talamahu market in Nuku’alofa. There are a few more photos of the market because it was the center of the shopping day, particularly on Saturdays. Circa 1975.

Best guess is they are off to New Zealand. I recognize Bill McIntyre and Phil English. Other names please.

If you were in the market for bananas and/or pineapples then this was your stall.

A Saturday trip to Talamahu market by three pretty ladies in their Sunday best. Names please

“The Ladies” leaving the Talamahu market.

And yet another shot of a family business (Tala Mahu) at Talamahu market. A three generation portrait.

A big feast in the making. Circa 1973. Two interesting things to mention. The coals cooking these pigs were very hot, so the “spit turners” protected themselves with a thick mat…pretty smart if you were to ask me. Another, more historic item I noticed, was the steel sheet that was being used to support the wooden spit rods. It was from WWII. The American Seabee’s would connect hundreds of these sheets together to form a fast, strong air field. The American Army was in Tongan 1942 -1945, and I am sure they built at least one airstrip soon after arriving. I am, also, sure they left a lot of these kinds of material on the island when they left. See example below.

Another example of a well used WWII retired air field cook top and I’m thinking  some delicious food in the making in those well used, cast iron pots. Tomasi took this in Niua Fo’ou.

A traffic jam in ‘Eua.

Peace  Corps volunteer meeting at the PC office. Behind Kathy (who, may I say looked ready to ask the most important question of the evening). Next to Kathy is Mike Basel who was the Assistant PC Director.  You can see our communications center…our mail boxes. Keep in mind there were no cell phones, emails or laptops in those dark ages…ink, paper and stamps were pretty much it for volunteers. They brought us letters, messages, and small packages. It always brought excited smiles when we walked into the office and saw something in our box.

Lopeti, the telegraph operator in Niuatoputpu…the only way to communicate with the outside world in those days. 

Ilaise and Sione Latu taking a little break after working their land in ‘Eua.

The ferry, Pakeina, in the harbor at Hihifo off of Niuatoputpu. My stomach gets a little queasy as I sit here remembering traveling on any of those boats. I never threw up, but watching various Tongan’s doing so I remember fighting the urge to join in the barf choir…mind over matter.  

Tomasi’s students at Atenisi school.

Tomasi chilling out on the legendary Olavaha heading to Ha’apai .

I believe I have seen that face before on “Yellow Shirt, blue hat Guy”…moments away from visiting the down wind rail. It doesn’t seem to be an issue for Dave Wyler as he checks out his camera. Not sure where this boat is going, but there will be some weight loss while it rocks back and fourth through the choppy waters. I always loved moving from one island to another, but enjoyed walking on the solid ground even more. Sympathy vomiting was always a danger if you were too close to a sea sick sufferer.

Rich Dann and  Francis Lundy chatting about something important, no doubt.

Dinner is served…I think I see a serving of ufi (a starchy root crop), a can of something and another bowl of something else. This might simply be a lunch break.

To turn pandanus leaves into a basket, a floor covering or a sleeping mat, one must first remove the thorns.

A peaceful Tafahi village view over looking the sea.

Some say the rounded corners of the corrugated steel roofed and walled hut to the right in this photo is an example of a cyclone “proofing” design that helps defuse the effects of the heavy winds that normally can tear apart a square cornered structure.

Kids making copra (carving the meat out of the shell of the coconut which is how coconut oil and other products are produced). A big industry back in the 1970’s.

Either coming or going to church in Nuku’alofa. Names please.

I forget the name of this pool game, but it included tiny “pins” set up in several areas of the table. This was taken at our PCV hang out, the Tonga Club.

Dave Wyler playing a round of Snooker at the Tonga Club with a person I do not recognize.

Below are a few photos of volunteers enjoying a few pints, probably on a Friday or Saturday afternoon and/or evening. It was a great place to mingle with local, successful business members and government leaders, and a great time to catch up with fellow Peace Corps volunteers,

I see Bill, but I can’t remember the second person. Name please.

I’m guessing this has to be a payday Friday. My hat’s off to Laura Kotsky and Susan Crooker for hosting an abundance of beer bottles on their table. Those may not be all of their bottles.

I recognize Doug, Lolo, Jon and me, but again I’ll need some help on the rest of the names.

One more beer, before we order one more beer. I see Tomasi, Lolo, Criss Cross, an expat and Rick. Bob Forbes helped me with two other names I remember Francis, but couldn’t pull his name out of my brain file. The two blokes sitting at the bottom are Graham Whittaker (NZ volunteer) and Francis Lundy (teacher from Tonga 16)

The Tonga Club, outside in all of it’s glory…well, at least enough to recognize it as our main watering hole. Bob Forbes just sent it to me and he has ID’d almost everyone… l to r in order of heads: Doug Petersen (Tonga 18), Will Donovan (Tonga 18), Tomasi Riddle (Tonga 14), Chris Cross, unidentified lady PCV in sunglasses and red blouse, Joe Guthrie (Tonga 19), Bob Morrill (kneeling, Tonga 18), Ed Whittle (Tonga 18), Francis Lundy (kneeling, Tonga 16), Bonnie Morrill (Tonga 18), Caroline Bly Wulzen (Tonga 17), Laura Koutsky (Tonga 16). 

Probably because of my advanced age, but I don’t remember getting a Tonga Club registration card. I’m digging the golden locks on Lopeti’s head.

Frank Bavacqua, crack reporter, Tonga Chronicle. (Tonga 11). Sadly the TC no longer exists.

Speaking of crack reporters, here sits bare footed professionally dressed PCV Rick Nathanson (Tonga 17) at his desk at the Tonga Chronicle (Circa 1977). It says something about his talents as a reporter sporting an office with a view.

Here is Rick in the old school government printing press room with the press operator. They were locking up hot-type slugs in a frame and then  securing the flame before heading off to the printing press. Ben Franklin would be proud.

Her name is Fatai and she has a nice warm smile.

I see Doug, Paul Zenker, Jon, Al, Greg and Dave. Kindly fill in the rest of the names.

The bus station right outside the Talamahu market. 

“Air cooled” around the island transportation.

If you missed the bus there was always a Hibiscus, three wheeled taxi, to take you where you needed to go. I vote we bring these little dangerous, but very fun rides back to the Kingdom.

Pila and me in Ngele’ia. It appears I was introducing him to the camera man. Pila was once a police officer and later became a jack of all trades for the Peace Corps office. I recently (in January 2020) had lunch with him and his son in San Bruno CA. It was great to reminisce.

An after work friendly basketball game every couple of weeks or so. Yes, I did have two different color socks…I am an artist so it’s okay. Names please. I do see Doug, Mark, Merv, Dennis, Mike, Al and me.

An aerial view postcard photograph of Nuku’alofa, best guess circa 1972.

This will give you a little idea of what was where in 1975. I sent this postcard to my parents and taped this tracing paper over it and it made it to San Bruno, California undamaged.

Here is a very cool photograph of Vuna wharf (circa 1912). Please note the three rail lines used to deliver and receive goods.

Another example of a family’s well manicured Fale Tonga grass hut and property. 

Tomasi, Ifrain Next to his future wife, IIaisa in ‘Eua.

A little Saturday dip into the local waters.

Four kids outside my hut stopping by to practice their English by saying, “Hello Emili”. I’m often asked if this was the poor child’s wheelchair. Nope, it was just a toy to have fun with.

I’m not sure who Santa was (Perhaps it’s the real Santa…hard to tell) but, I’m going to step out on a limb and suggest this was taken in December. Circa 1977. You have to love that little buckaroo in the center of the picture complete with sidearm.

Maki, part of our Peace Corps staff looking busy. Years later I found her managing the Coke Cola distribution center in Mau’funga.

The road to my hut. It only looked like this when it rained and it always rained. 

Tom’s fale in Niua Fa’ou. No rain got through that roof so he was happy.

Jon, kick’n back with a few friends on a lazy, I will assume, Saturday afternoon. Help with the other names would be appreciated. 

Wash day. 

Returning home after church.

Working the garden…IIaisa, Sione Latu and Ifa. Please note there is no tool in Ifa’s hands…a smart man, that Ifa was.

Girls sports day

Girls sports day.

Someone said or did something funny. Pictured from left to right Jon, Tomasi and Don Greer.

A grainy shot of me at a very cool beach in ‘Eua, rock’n my headband, which for some reason, seemed, well, rock’n.

Because Bob Forbes worked on water projects and wrote grants to build systems for villages like this one (Houma, ‘Eua) they welcomed him with open arms and unrealistic hopes that a grant would be realized and a new water system would immediately be built because of his efforts. What better way to welcome a champ like this than having a village feast. I think I spy a Fiji Bitter beer in the back ground. A buzz in a bottle with 10 percent alcohol. Bob even heard rumors that Houma got a small water system installed about a decade later. Hope springs eternal. 

 

While we are on the subject of food I thought you might be interested in building an umu. This instruction page came out of a very cool 197 page cookbook, “Niu (Coconut) Ideas”, produced by Jan Basile Peace Corps volunteers, Terry Contant, Vicki Fish, Jackie Russum, Ed Wong, Bill Dunn. It has some great recipes for everything from a whale dish to some very tasty deserts. Quite an accomplishment.

Another beautiful beach. You can tell that because I’m pointing at it. I pointed to things a lot in those days. Why? No idea.

Bob Forbes and Teili Taufatofua, “Mr. Waterworks” as he was known in Ha’apai.

A fale kaloa (1970’s Tongan equivalent of an American 7/11 but much smaller and with no Slurpee machine). Almost every village had one or two of these convenient stores. There was no electricity to this particular store so evening shopping was kerosene powered. This store was directly across from Tina’s hut and the proprietor name was Likua. Like most of us Tina would pick up he bread, butter and kerosene. Tina became very close with Likua.

Another semi-well stocked fale Kaloa in another village. I see a few lines of kapa pulu (canned corned beef from New Zealand) on the shelf behind these ladies. A banana leaf or two, a nice taro leaf, some fresh coconut cream, an onion, a ground oven some very hot rocks and you have a meal fit for a king.

A very well stocked fale Kaloa in Niua.

This store reminds me of a story I’m going to force you to read. It was in the first part of 1975, I had been in Tonga for a few months and noticed to my dismay that the movie theaters did not serve popcorn and more importantly, no one seemed to know what it was. I really missed having a bag of popcorn when I watched a movie, but I knew I would have to wait until I returned home before I would see my favorite snack again. That is until one day, I stopped by a new Fale Kaloa and saw on a shelf a row of “Jolly Time Popcorn” cans staring back at me. I bought them all. I made a big bag of popcorn, covered it with New Zealand butter and salt that night and brought it with me in my back pack to the cinema. As I waited in line to buy my ticket, a couple of my students saw me eating my popcorn and asked me what it was. I gave them a few kernels and they loved it. They asked me how to make it. I told them if they behaved themselves in class on Monday I would give them some to make at home. That Monday they were little angles, and as promised I gave them a little bag of kernels and told them to put them in a cooking pot with some oil and shake them over the fire until they stopped popping. (It’s important to mention, at this point, that in those days many homes still cooked over an open fire.) Now back to my story. The next day they both ran into my class to report that all had gone well. Everyone loved the popcorn, but then they said, “Mr. Hons, it was hard to catch the popcorn but it was fun to make.” I didn’t understand what they were saying until I realized I had forgotten to tell them to put a lid on the pot.  They did not understand why I started to laugh, but they both laughed with me. I’m sure the chickens ate well that night.

…and baby makes three… took you a minute, didn’t it? This was taken in the bush in Tafahi. That baby is now a 43 year old adult.

A very tired looking 16 year old Peau, weaving a mat in Tafahi.

A lazy Sunday after church in ‘Eua.

A couple more photos of the very busy Talamahu market.           

Seini, showing off her smile.

When the sun is beating down on you and, unlike your friend in the back ground, you don’t have a hat or an umbrella you need to improvise. Well done, young lady, well done.

The entire student body and teaching staff of the Wesleyan elementary school. Far left is principal Hala. Efi is seen in the second row, left and Tomasi at the far right, lower row. Other names requested.

I see Canadian Dave (he had an amazing shell collection), Doug, Mike and Dave W, but who is that other out of focus “fishermen”? 

It doesn’t get any fresher than this. I’m guessing that this Parrot fish catch of the day was sold in no time at all. I’m also going to take a guess that this is a Saturday morning beach market.

The Old Saint Mary’s off of Vuna. Circa 1975

The Peace Corps training team…front Row:  Elisapeta Falemaka (now Peterson), Dave Wyler, Moala Funaki (PC admin assistant)

Back Row: Pulu Tohi (language instructor), Leopino (language instructor), Tutomu Nakao (training director and language instructor), Tevita (language instructor)

Dave, thanks for the list of names.

Kevin Holmes (Tonga 17) getting ready to down a shot…Cheers…No make that, ‘Ofa atu.

Seini, sporting her friendly Island tee shirt and tapa cloth print skirt.

Black Gold, Texas T…looking for oil in Tonga. Circa early 1976. No oil was found.

Lunch at Tomasi’s fale in Niuatoputapu.

Juggling (Hiko) was a huge thing in Tonga back in the 1970’s

All in their Sunday best pose for a photo after church.

Good news for dinner, not such good news for the Octopi. 

Dave Wyler heading to or coming back from one island or another.

Classic Fale Tonga construction circa 1974

You are looking at a Peace Corps technical group, circa 1977 or so. The only people I recognize, with the help of Dave, are Sela Na’a (language teacher) and Joe Guthrie, sitting next to Sela and, of course, Dave Wyler. Bob Forbes helped with this photo as well. The Couple at top right are Bob & Bonnie Morrill of Tonga 18. Standing to Bonnie’s right is Eija, a Japanese volunteer and marine engineer for the Tongan fishing fleet who fascinated Tongan boys with his kung-fu moves and could drink you under the table. The hippy-looking dude in dark shirt between Pulu Tohi and Dave Wyler is Robert Berley, Tonga 19.

Who’s going to clean up the table?

Best guess, off on a three hour, not so delightful, huge wave, rocking boat, seasick filled ride from ‘Eua to Tonga’tapu. Forty years later its still a not so delightful, huge wave, rocking boat, seasick filled ride, but only about two hours in modern times. When the plane is operational it’s a seven minute flight…BTW everyone is weighed and seated appropriately to balance the plane…I’m good with that.

The wonderful Hau hau movie theater. It was an open air theater with a roof over the back, upper level, expensive seats (40 cents). When it rained, which it often did, you could watch the children running to the corners where there was arguably some resemblance of an over hang. I can still hear the screams of the kids when a down pour hit. When it rains in Tonga it usually rains cats and dogs and other small vertebrates. I do not remember anything resembling a drizzle.

Simply put…a trifecta of cute.

Like every Sunday in Niua and everywhere else in the Kingdom.

An After church failfekai.

As is the tradition, a female prepares the kava. It would appear this is the beginning of a long, friend filled evening at a local kava club.

Some more Atenisi students.

The feeling, by the judges is that this photo is not part of the Centennial celebration or the visit of Elizabeth II and Phillip. We believe it is the Tongan Navy (probably all of them) marching during His Majesty Tupou IV annual July 4th birthday celebration. 

Atenisi students and a teacher getting ready to be part of the celebrations to welcome Queen Elizabeth.

Heading off to welcome Queen Elizabeth.

Fonomanu Loiloi and family in front of their home.

A couple of Tom’s students with his cat in hand.

Three kids somewhere on a beach on Tonga’tapu. Names please.

The sport of sneaking onto a cruise ship by Peace Corps volunteers when one came to the kingdom was legionary. Timing was everything. From left to right was Emile, Tim and Phil downing shots of something alcohol based. Not sure how we paid for the drinks, but a leisurely late morning “wet lunch” was had by all (Kathy took the photo).

A good example of a Peace Corps volunteers place to be when one of these cruise ships came in. Hot showers, washing machines and a good mixed drink or two, oh and there was also the buffet. I wouldn’t be surprised if these two bikers were on their way to sneak onto this particular “Love Boat. 

 

 

Don Greer and Tomasi having a few drinks before going out to have a few more drinks. Circa 1978

In 1975 Tomasi’s aunt (far left)Eleanor Long and his father and mother, Hugh and Mary Riddle visited him in Tonga. Here they are on a cruise ship in Fiji. On the trip Hugh made the 8mm film you can see on this site..

A beautiful photo of a small village at teh landing spot on Tafahi.

These two pages will give you a good idea of what the cost of living was in Tonga in 1976. I put it together with the help of Miss Debbie’s (Science Teacher at Tonga High) typing skills for the new Peace Corps volunteers (Tonga 17) to help them understand their new home away from home.

Girls sports day. Circa 1977

 A post card showing the what I believe is the closing of Parliament (at least for the first day) as his Majesty drives by with a police escort. Please note that the Tonga High students occupy the best lines. His Majesty, after all, went to Tonga High.

Ifa (Tonga 14) and IIaise outside a cave in ‘Eua. Circa 1977

IIaise out in the field in ‘Eua.

Jon and Laumanu Tonutonu on some beach somewhere on the island.

Jon and Tomasi’s freshly repaired sail boat. Master boat builder and repair expert, Tevita (the man in the middle).

Lupe, on Vuna road. Why she is there is a mystery. Perhaps waiting for a boat. Please notice that a gent behind her has a bandana wrapped around his jaw and head. This was a dead giveaway that he had a tooth ache. sometimes Tongan herbs would be placed between the area in pain and the bandana. Today I still see this “cure” on some heads.

It would appear something astonishing was just said or done. Names please.

Hulta and Febei on ‘Eua.

Niua Hihifo Wesleyan middle School. Names please.

Watching the strange Peace Corps volunteers doing things. It was a pass time for the kids back then.

Tomasi’s neighbors in Tufuenga.

Paula’s daughter, Mafi and friend.

Village members dancing the Ma’ulu’ulu in Niuatoputapu.

Young dancers  in Niuatoputapu

Phil Crooker and Susan.

John Sheahan (Tonga 11) RIP. He lived next to me before Debbie moved in.

I’m not sure where this was taken, but Bob Forbes found it on another site and which ID’s the palangis in the back row as Group 3 Volunteers Suzanne & Russel Loverdi in ‘Ofu in 1969:

What I remember most about the use of these beer bottles was as decorations around graves. I’m not exactly sure what these volunteers are sitting on, but I am sure its not a grave.

I do know that this photo was probably taken in December.

Dave and friends heading off to another island or coming back from another island. Other names please.

Making lunch for the school kids.  Names, please. Circa 1976.